My son, Rory, and I recently returned from twelve days in Ireland. It rained only twice, once for seven days and once for five days. Where ever you go throughout Ireland, the people are always apologetic about the weather. It's as if they are embarrassed by it. But if you're going to Ireland for the weather, then you're going for the wrong reason - although, it helps to explain why the country is so lush and green, the people so pale, and why there is such an intense, natural inclination to drink so much.
The purpose of our trip was to inaugurate my son to the island home of his paternal Grandfather, and introduce him to his innumerable cousins on the Island of Arranmore, located in the remote northwest corner of County Donegal.
Arranmore is one of those places you can't get to by accident. It takes real determination and effort - but once there, it is like taking a giant step backwards in time. The rhythm of their days is still governed by the tide and Irish (Gaelic) is still spoken by all the residents and the preferred language of many. They still spade turf, and tend to flocks of sheep. There is no permanent Gardai Siocha (police) on the island and so, the pubs never close! The young people can often be seen walking the hills at daybreak, making their way home from the island's popular disco.
It is a beautiful, rugged and peaceful place where fishing was once a major industry. No more. The shoals of herring are gone, the Cod, too. The North Atlantic Salmon have dwindled to the point where the government has intervened and taken over their management. Salmon fishing is now illegal in Irish waters.
But there are a few who continue to comb the rocky harbors of the Donegal coast for European Lobster and Brown Crab. I jumped at the invitation to accompany a long-time friend and island resident, Jerry Early, to "pull pots" one morning. We set out in a light drizzle (did I mention it rained a lot?) and harvested several lobster from stringers Jerry had set the day before in coves on the north side of the island. I found it to be back-breaking and invigorating work, but handled with effortless routine by my fisherman friend. It was one of those once-in-a-lifetime experiences and an incredible education.
Before docking, my son took a few pictures. I didn't notice until I was looking through the pictures yesterday, that in the background of one of the photos is a 20 foot insulated sea container - the kind pharmaceutical companies consign for temperature-sensitive ocean shipments. Jerry uses it to store his fishing gear and bait. Where it came from and how it got to such a remote location, I haven't a clue and I didn't ask. The thrifty and ingenious islanders make practical use of just about everything. I thought the accidental photo qualified for a "cooler head sighting".
Some photos of the adventure are attached. (Click on the paper clip icon below). The final photo shows me and Jerry rewarding ourselves for the days' work by engaging in some traditional Irish craic in one of the quaint pubs on Arranmore.
